.....wonder if I can edit the date I posted this. Numerous (well at least three) readers have commented that they thought I had stayed in Sweden as the blog seemed incomplete.
I feel I need to make some comments re Gotland as it may be the only place I've been that you haven't. Therefore I can tell you something about it. So on the Friday night Sarah and I left Stockholm by train to catch the ferry to Gotland. Another cruise through the archipelago - but south of Stockholm this time and not north. Beautiful smooth trip. Fantastic sunset. Arrived quite late and our room was a bit like the cabins on the overnight ferries (bunks!)
Gotland is 150 kms long - and has over 100 medieval churches. It is the holiday place for the Swedes with lovely sandy beaches. It was the last weekend of the summer holidays and we expected the place to be overrun - and altho it was hard to find accommodation - the beaches were empty (well they were when we visited them). May of been something to do with the howling wind - except it was sunny - and I expected the Swedes to be a hardier bunch.
Anyway - all of those churches make it a very pretty place. Visby - main town - is a world heritage site - and all but one of the churches in the old town are ruins - very spectacular skeletons still standing. I imagine the weather in Gotland can be very fierce - so once they were abandoned during the Reformation - they quickly deteriorated. In contrast the churches scattered along the countryside are all still in use and quite gorgeous. They are still digging up hoards of silver - apparently it was a very wealthy little kingdom until land tax was raised 10 fold. (Is that a lesson I should write to John Key about?)
We hired a car and sped along the country roads to the top of the island - across on a wee ferry to Faro - where there are incredible limestone formations - big pillars scattered along the beach with remains of 400 million year old coral reefs - quaint fishing cottages - windmills. Faro is where Bergman went to film and loved the area so much - stayed on and lived there.
Sarah returned to Stockholm on the Sunday night and I stayed on and wandered the old town and surrounds - found gallows and windmills - and some art that captured the beautiful light in Gotland.
Ferry back to the mainland and trains back to Stockholm.
Tried to get to a few last minute churches/markets/ etc that had missed out earlier including an evening visit to Gruna Lund - the amusement park. We stood in the queue for "Insane" but as we got closer - Sarah seemed almost agitated - so decided if she was anxious about repeating an earlier ride - perhaps I didn't need the adrenaline rush. Couldn't decide if the name was because you had to be insane to consider doing it - or if that was the end result when you got off. Possibly best not to know... Lady Gaga was playing there that night - I did wonder if she had had a ride on the aforementioned ride?? But who am I to judge!
So there we have it - fantastic five weeks - all over far too soon - and hope to get back again while Sarah is still there. Malaysian Airlines have apparently stopped their flight Auckland/KL/Stockholm - which is very inconvenient - as it made it so easy. Had a longer stopover in KL on the way back - enough time to have lunch and a catch up with Sally - and a massage.
Friday, February 5, 2010
Thursday, August 13, 2009
week 2 - Stockholm
I guess it couldn't last for ever - home early today to drop off the shopping from Ikea (mainly Sarah's) and suddenly the skies have opened and moisture is falling, accompanied by hearty cracks of thunder. When I was waiting for the bus, I did think that the clouds were a particularly pretty shade of grey. Hopefully it will clear over night as we are off to Gotland for the weekend - and I'm staying on there for a couple of days as Sarah is going to Gotenburg for work. Then I'll only have one full day left in Stockholm before leaving for home. and I still have quite a few things left to tick off. Perhaps I'll have to come back.
Visited the Palace yesterday - and the changing of the guard - the brass band astride their horses - with their blue uniforms and silver helmets - was good value for money (considering it was free). Have decided that the Russians are the most generous hosts as they will let you take photos off all their treasures (except temporary exhibits) - in the Hermitage and Russian Museum. No such luck in Sweden - so I had to take numerous photos of all the good looking young soldiers in their blue and silver to make up for it. I do like the pomp and ceremony so most of the day was in the State Apartments and associated museums, chapels and cathedral.
Been quite a royal week as also went out to Drottningham Palace - where the royal family actually live - it is also a UNESCO World Hertitage site. Gorgeous setting. The best part was the old theatre which is still operating as it was 250 years ago. (had been closed for 150 years so no-one ruined it in the meantime).
Been quite a role reversal - Sarah getting up and going to work - at least she hasn't had to drop me off at daycare or school. I have mastered the intracasies of recyling - 50c for a large plastic bottle - feed them into the wall and listen for the crunch. Have also mastered Swedish commercial washing machines and driers. Have got used to the fact that you can only buy lite beer at the supermarket - anything stronger requires a visa (well almost).
Tried to do some swot for trivia at the Nobel Museum - but failed. Also failed at practicing arpeggios in the archipelago.
The Vasa Museum was fascinating - maiden voyage lasted 1.5 kms - and it then sat on the sea floor for 333 years.
But the most significant learning in this trip has been mastering the metro/buses. Last year I didn't use them much - relied on the legs - but now feel almost comfortable with the different maps & diagrams etc. Truly amazing what you can learn!
Visited the Palace yesterday - and the changing of the guard - the brass band astride their horses - with their blue uniforms and silver helmets - was good value for money (considering it was free). Have decided that the Russians are the most generous hosts as they will let you take photos off all their treasures (except temporary exhibits) - in the Hermitage and Russian Museum. No such luck in Sweden - so I had to take numerous photos of all the good looking young soldiers in their blue and silver to make up for it. I do like the pomp and ceremony so most of the day was in the State Apartments and associated museums, chapels and cathedral.
Been quite a royal week as also went out to Drottningham Palace - where the royal family actually live - it is also a UNESCO World Hertitage site. Gorgeous setting. The best part was the old theatre which is still operating as it was 250 years ago. (had been closed for 150 years so no-one ruined it in the meantime).
Been quite a role reversal - Sarah getting up and going to work - at least she hasn't had to drop me off at daycare or school. I have mastered the intracasies of recyling - 50c for a large plastic bottle - feed them into the wall and listen for the crunch. Have also mastered Swedish commercial washing machines and driers. Have got used to the fact that you can only buy lite beer at the supermarket - anything stronger requires a visa (well almost).
Tried to do some swot for trivia at the Nobel Museum - but failed. Also failed at practicing arpeggios in the archipelago.
The Vasa Museum was fascinating - maiden voyage lasted 1.5 kms - and it then sat on the sea floor for 333 years.
But the most significant learning in this trip has been mastering the metro/buses. Last year I didn't use them much - relied on the legs - but now feel almost comfortable with the different maps & diagrams etc. Truly amazing what you can learn!
Sunday, August 9, 2009
week one - stockholm
.... and what a beautiful, hot, sunny week. The locals are saying it's a "good" summer - but not exceptional. Hard to believe that the waterways / lakes etc will be frozen over in a few months.
So each morning when greeted with the bright blue sky - have set out on the trusty legs again. Have ticked off many of the places on the plan:
wandered thru Gamla Stan - no recession there judging by the eateries; tunnelbana (metro) to Skogskyrkogarden (World Heritage woodland cemetry) - I know sounds an odd place to go - but combines art, architecture and nature!; metro to Millesgarden - more scuplture / gardens / art. ferry to Djurgarden and more walking - Rosendale Palace (just a minor one in comparison), and the odd church.
yesterday (Sunday) we took the ferry out to Grinda in the archipelago - similar to the Marlborough Sounds in some ways - but more populated. - The Swedish beaches consist of smooth rocks - over which there are many Swedish bodies. As soon as the sun comes out - they are out in it - getting their full dose of Vitamin D before the long winter. Water is a bit too cool for my liking - but Sarah had a quick dip. Apparently it warms up in some of the inlets - but one girl was telling us that she had been swimmimg in 14 degree water, altho she was pleased she didn't know what it was before she got in!
Many of the parks have allotments where they have a little patch of flowers/vegetables - and a space for the barbeque - and a little 2 x 2 m hut - gorgeous to walk through at this time of year.
had some difficulty recognising place names - too many k/g/y/js together - but finally getting the hang of them. some are easier to recognise than others eg garden (except this keyboard doesn't have the little o above the a), other become recognisable (kyrka and museet) and others are still a mystery.
wondered thru shops - rather pricy - so except for using Sarah's staff discount at H & M haven't done much damage. Lovely to look at the Swedish design tho.
anyway off for more training and walking -
So each morning when greeted with the bright blue sky - have set out on the trusty legs again. Have ticked off many of the places on the plan:
wandered thru Gamla Stan - no recession there judging by the eateries; tunnelbana (metro) to Skogskyrkogarden (World Heritage woodland cemetry) - I know sounds an odd place to go - but combines art, architecture and nature!; metro to Millesgarden - more scuplture / gardens / art. ferry to Djurgarden and more walking - Rosendale Palace (just a minor one in comparison), and the odd church.
yesterday (Sunday) we took the ferry out to Grinda in the archipelago - similar to the Marlborough Sounds in some ways - but more populated. - The Swedish beaches consist of smooth rocks - over which there are many Swedish bodies. As soon as the sun comes out - they are out in it - getting their full dose of Vitamin D before the long winter. Water is a bit too cool for my liking - but Sarah had a quick dip. Apparently it warms up in some of the inlets - but one girl was telling us that she had been swimmimg in 14 degree water, altho she was pleased she didn't know what it was before she got in!
Many of the parks have allotments where they have a little patch of flowers/vegetables - and a space for the barbeque - and a little 2 x 2 m hut - gorgeous to walk through at this time of year.
had some difficulty recognising place names - too many k/g/y/js together - but finally getting the hang of them. some are easier to recognise than others eg garden (except this keyboard doesn't have the little o above the a), other become recognisable (kyrka and museet) and others are still a mystery.
wondered thru shops - rather pricy - so except for using Sarah's staff discount at H & M haven't done much damage. Lovely to look at the Swedish design tho.
anyway off for more training and walking -
Monday, August 3, 2009
on the road again.... in the Baltic States
been trying to think of an appropriate theme song for this trip - and everytime "on the road again" comes into my head - so I guess that's it, for now anyhow.
left auckland friday 17th. despite all good intentions of being properly organised - packing commenced at 10.30 pm the night before (after a few wines with Anne) - and with both Anne and Penny's very good advice on what not to pack. Apart from having two toothpastes - it seems to have been successful - or you just manage with what you have - everything else is out of sight / out of mind.
good trip akl / KL / Stockholm. shared the back half of the plane from KL with 100+ Thai seamen - well thats what the steward said they were - as he had been trying to find out where they were going - and apparently none spoke English - and he decided they were seamen as they were so brown. All decked out in Siam ..... Services Ltd gear - still wondering what they were up too - ? perhaps Thai companies are still doing overseas conferences? surely they couldn't all be relocating??
arrived early Saturday morning Swedish time - and back to Sarah's compact flat. changed time zones much easier this trip - perhaps arriving in the am is the trick - stay up all day - and then crash. Sarah had very unkind comments re my sleeping (?) that night !
had a quick look around the Old Town (Gamla Stan), and sampled herring and potato. Can see that I can resume the search for the perfect fish and potato combination after last years search for the ultimate fish pie in Ireland.
Stockholm is certainly a beautiful city. Sarah is on Sodermalm which is the island south of Gamla Stan - so a very handy base for exploring. However still to do most of that - as on the Sunday night we caught the overnight ferry to Helsinki. The first few hours is thru the archipelago - so very pretty. little islands with little red baches etc.
Two nights in Helsinki - hop on / off tour / Alto architecture / cathedrals / church carved out of rock / design area / markets / fish snacks /
caught 7am train to St Petersburg - wee bit concerned at border that we had cancelled the accommodation that matched my visa application - as Sarah had to have prepaid for her accommodation to get her visa - but despite all the hassles of getting the visas - they all seemed quite unconcerned as to why we were there.
was a lot more concerned when we had dinner that night - as I thought the exchange rate was 8:1 which meant that the spare rations packed around my waist were going to be put to good use very quickly. Luckily that night when reading the Gospel according to LP, realised the rate was more like 20:1 - so could resume the search for fish & potatoes.
6 nights in St Petersburg - and could easily have had more. Big city - and endless palaces / churches etc. The Winter Palace / Hermitage alone is worth at least two days to do it any justice at all. We did the Russia Museum - Church on Spilled Blood - Peterhof Palace (based on Versailles) - canals - nighttime ride to see the bridges being raised - numerous Cathedrals / monuments. Giselle at the Palace theatre.
Everyone was far more helpful than I expected - bus conductors were very friendly even if slightly misleading ("I go, you say") - food was great - salmon and sour cream for breakfast is a new favourite - needless to say the spare rations packed stayed in place - even alto walking 12 hours / day.
not sure how I would cope with such short nights on a permanent basis - altho I suppose you catch up on the sleep in the winter months.
found some good shopping - bags / shoes / russian dolls / good sale at Ecco shoes - so new shoes as the spring had sprung in the old walking shoes.
so with more in the bags than when we arrived - caught the bus to Tallinn (Estonia) - hotel in the old city - gorgeous old town / fabulous market / did all three legs of the city tour / Palace / Kumu art museum / cathedrals / three nights there - then bus to Riga (Latvia) with even more luggage. at last count Sarah had bought three coat/capes and various styles of hats, so is well prepared for another Swedish winter.
started to understand how it must have been before the Euro was adopted by most EU countries. each country so far has had a different currency. Swedish krona / Euros in Finland / Rubles / Estonian Kroon / and now Latvian Lats. went to the ATM at the Riga bus station / and was very confused. had got used to dividing by 20 / then 8 (yes the 8 related to Estonia) and the ATM only had 5/10/20/50/100 as options. anyway - it is x 3. amazing how the plastic card works everywhere!
so only one night in Riga - another gorgeous Old Town (but Tallinn is the favourite) / markets / churchs / but also some fabulous art deco buildings. Luckily I had arranged my own personal architecture guide - not the cheapest option I admit - but very worthwhile. also a very thought provoking museum re recent history / occupation / banishments to Serbia / independence /
there was a Norwegian male choir singing in one of the churches - so made enquiries about possiblities for the Voice Club Choir for the future.
then the overnight ferry back to Stockholm - tiny cabin with a bunk - scarcely big enough for our bags / arriving Sunday morning. gorgeous day - off to Skansen (open air museum) then to Gona Lund amusement park- where Lady Gaga was playing. there is an awesome ride there called "Insane" - am going to go back especially to do it.
so today, being Monday, Sarah is back at work - and I am having a day off. but can't do the washing until tomorrow as have to book a time at the aprtment's laundry - so have to be up early in the am to do that. about to go and negotiate the swedish supermarket.
.
left auckland friday 17th. despite all good intentions of being properly organised - packing commenced at 10.30 pm the night before (after a few wines with Anne) - and with both Anne and Penny's very good advice on what not to pack. Apart from having two toothpastes - it seems to have been successful - or you just manage with what you have - everything else is out of sight / out of mind.
good trip akl / KL / Stockholm. shared the back half of the plane from KL with 100+ Thai seamen - well thats what the steward said they were - as he had been trying to find out where they were going - and apparently none spoke English - and he decided they were seamen as they were so brown. All decked out in Siam ..... Services Ltd gear - still wondering what they were up too - ? perhaps Thai companies are still doing overseas conferences? surely they couldn't all be relocating??
arrived early Saturday morning Swedish time - and back to Sarah's compact flat. changed time zones much easier this trip - perhaps arriving in the am is the trick - stay up all day - and then crash. Sarah had very unkind comments re my sleeping (?) that night !
had a quick look around the Old Town (Gamla Stan), and sampled herring and potato. Can see that I can resume the search for the perfect fish and potato combination after last years search for the ultimate fish pie in Ireland.
Stockholm is certainly a beautiful city. Sarah is on Sodermalm which is the island south of Gamla Stan - so a very handy base for exploring. However still to do most of that - as on the Sunday night we caught the overnight ferry to Helsinki. The first few hours is thru the archipelago - so very pretty. little islands with little red baches etc.
Two nights in Helsinki - hop on / off tour / Alto architecture / cathedrals / church carved out of rock / design area / markets / fish snacks /
caught 7am train to St Petersburg - wee bit concerned at border that we had cancelled the accommodation that matched my visa application - as Sarah had to have prepaid for her accommodation to get her visa - but despite all the hassles of getting the visas - they all seemed quite unconcerned as to why we were there.
was a lot more concerned when we had dinner that night - as I thought the exchange rate was 8:1 which meant that the spare rations packed around my waist were going to be put to good use very quickly. Luckily that night when reading the Gospel according to LP, realised the rate was more like 20:1 - so could resume the search for fish & potatoes.
6 nights in St Petersburg - and could easily have had more. Big city - and endless palaces / churches etc. The Winter Palace / Hermitage alone is worth at least two days to do it any justice at all. We did the Russia Museum - Church on Spilled Blood - Peterhof Palace (based on Versailles) - canals - nighttime ride to see the bridges being raised - numerous Cathedrals / monuments. Giselle at the Palace theatre.
Everyone was far more helpful than I expected - bus conductors were very friendly even if slightly misleading ("I go, you say") - food was great - salmon and sour cream for breakfast is a new favourite - needless to say the spare rations packed stayed in place - even alto walking 12 hours / day.
not sure how I would cope with such short nights on a permanent basis - altho I suppose you catch up on the sleep in the winter months.
found some good shopping - bags / shoes / russian dolls / good sale at Ecco shoes - so new shoes as the spring had sprung in the old walking shoes.
so with more in the bags than when we arrived - caught the bus to Tallinn (Estonia) - hotel in the old city - gorgeous old town / fabulous market / did all three legs of the city tour / Palace / Kumu art museum / cathedrals / three nights there - then bus to Riga (Latvia) with even more luggage. at last count Sarah had bought three coat/capes and various styles of hats, so is well prepared for another Swedish winter.
started to understand how it must have been before the Euro was adopted by most EU countries. each country so far has had a different currency. Swedish krona / Euros in Finland / Rubles / Estonian Kroon / and now Latvian Lats. went to the ATM at the Riga bus station / and was very confused. had got used to dividing by 20 / then 8 (yes the 8 related to Estonia) and the ATM only had 5/10/20/50/100 as options. anyway - it is x 3. amazing how the plastic card works everywhere!
so only one night in Riga - another gorgeous Old Town (but Tallinn is the favourite) / markets / churchs / but also some fabulous art deco buildings. Luckily I had arranged my own personal architecture guide - not the cheapest option I admit - but very worthwhile. also a very thought provoking museum re recent history / occupation / banishments to Serbia / independence /
there was a Norwegian male choir singing in one of the churches - so made enquiries about possiblities for the Voice Club Choir for the future.
then the overnight ferry back to Stockholm - tiny cabin with a bunk - scarcely big enough for our bags / arriving Sunday morning. gorgeous day - off to Skansen (open air museum) then to Gona Lund amusement park- where Lady Gaga was playing. there is an awesome ride there called "Insane" - am going to go back especially to do it.
so today, being Monday, Sarah is back at work - and I am having a day off. but can't do the washing until tomorrow as have to book a time at the aprtment's laundry - so have to be up early in the am to do that. about to go and negotiate the swedish supermarket.
.
Monday, November 17, 2008
last leg (s)
where does time go? 10 days to catch up since last post. Spent two nights in Arezzo and on Sunday trained back to Florence in time to beat the strike. Had booked into Hotel Centrale in Firenze and probably the best (3 star) hotel that I've stayed in all trip. So if anyone is planning a trip there - I can tell you more about it. For the 2nd and 3rd nights - only E50, including a pretty good breakfast. Off season I know - but very close to everything (incl the railway station).
Went to a reading that night of "Love Letters" by Jill Eikenberry and Michael Tucker (remember LA Law). Small new theatre. Due to a misprint in the "Whats on" I only got to see the second half - but the local (Americans) were so dismayed that the time had been printed incorrectly - that they insisted I go free!
So a lot more walking. Tried to get on a group to go walking into Chianti and despite turning up at 8.15 twice - twice it was cancelled - so went back to being my own tour guide/leader. Needless to say - more frescoes. Can't decide if frescoes or mosaics are my favourite.
Haven't said much about food. Got much better at selecting more unlikely looking places. One night in Florence I walked in at 7.30 ish (too early) - but couldn't see that it was empty from the street - was seated right next to kitchen - bench type tables - and soon enough all the tables were full. Including every seat at the table that I was at. Good roast pork! Didn't feel compelled to try the Tuscan speciality of tripe, but did do wild boar & crispy cheek.
I like the Italian way of having a quick caffe at the counter along with a pastry. When breakfast wasn't included - cappuccinno and a very good pastry for E2 - can't complain about that! At the Uffizi, the difference between coffee standing at the bar and sitting at a table was E1.60 to 4.50.
Wednesday - train down to Orvieto - so did spend one night in Umbria. Not enought time to act out the Maggie Smith role in "My House in Umbria" so that will have to wait until next time.
Now the cathedral in Orvieto is something else - and I do think that if you are going to have some mosaics along with the black & white marble - then I agree with Orvieto - you may as well go OTT and have lots. Luckily I saw it on the afternoon I arrived with the sun shining on it as the next day was quite miserable - thunder/lightening/rain/cold.
Train back to Roma. Walked / tried to get interested in shopping but didn't do that well. Think I need companions / advisors for shopping. However when I checked in to fly to Singapore with now two full suitcases - and they didn't charge excess luggage? - I must have bought something!
Watched the rugby in a crowded Irish pub on my last night in Roma. Was slightly worried that there was going to be a riot on the penalty try - so kept my head low.
so - now in Singapore - haven't done the lying by the pool bit which was what I had planned for these two days - but have walked.... but no churches!
Being a numbers person - I like to keep track - so - 20 countries visited (16 for the first time); am going to count the number of UNESCO World Heritage sites and set up the checklist to start ticking off the remaining 800 or so; but no way I'll be able to count the duomos, cathedrals or the Madonna col Bambinos.
So - for anyone who is still bothering to read my ramblings - what have I learnt?
Contrary to earlier rumours, I can read maps and find my way around - the best piece of advice I received was from Ange who reminded me that the sun is in the south when you're in the Northern Hemisphere. Tho' it is amazing how the subconscious can override that even when you are concentrating really hard on which way to go...
The somewhat irritating habit I have of reading instructions comes in really useful when negotiating train timetables, and generally finding the way from A to B.
After the huge amount of art I have seen I think I now the difference between some styles!!
I now really understand why some professional firms still insist that their partners have a sabattical every five years or so. My poor old head that had been feeling as if it was in overload mode, now feels that it had been defragged, tidied, dusted and given a spring clean.
So... am feeling incredibly fortunate that I have been able to have this time out - some of the ragged edges have been smoothed over. I think experiencing so much beauty (art and architcture, but also landscapes,) is very soothing for ones soul!!
Not sure how I am going to cope with timesheets, collecting bad debts, tax problems etc again.
So - back to the drawing board and try and work out a way to do it again!
PS - please excuse all spelling errors - my poor wee EEPC is about to give up - and it doesn't have a spell check -
and thanks to those that have given news from home and other feedback...
see you soon!!
Went to a reading that night of "Love Letters" by Jill Eikenberry and Michael Tucker (remember LA Law). Small new theatre. Due to a misprint in the "Whats on" I only got to see the second half - but the local (Americans) were so dismayed that the time had been printed incorrectly - that they insisted I go free!
So a lot more walking. Tried to get on a group to go walking into Chianti and despite turning up at 8.15 twice - twice it was cancelled - so went back to being my own tour guide/leader. Needless to say - more frescoes. Can't decide if frescoes or mosaics are my favourite.
Haven't said much about food. Got much better at selecting more unlikely looking places. One night in Florence I walked in at 7.30 ish (too early) - but couldn't see that it was empty from the street - was seated right next to kitchen - bench type tables - and soon enough all the tables were full. Including every seat at the table that I was at. Good roast pork! Didn't feel compelled to try the Tuscan speciality of tripe, but did do wild boar & crispy cheek.
I like the Italian way of having a quick caffe at the counter along with a pastry. When breakfast wasn't included - cappuccinno and a very good pastry for E2 - can't complain about that! At the Uffizi, the difference between coffee standing at the bar and sitting at a table was E1.60 to 4.50.
Wednesday - train down to Orvieto - so did spend one night in Umbria. Not enought time to act out the Maggie Smith role in "My House in Umbria" so that will have to wait until next time.
Now the cathedral in Orvieto is something else - and I do think that if you are going to have some mosaics along with the black & white marble - then I agree with Orvieto - you may as well go OTT and have lots. Luckily I saw it on the afternoon I arrived with the sun shining on it as the next day was quite miserable - thunder/lightening/rain/cold.
Train back to Roma. Walked / tried to get interested in shopping but didn't do that well. Think I need companions / advisors for shopping. However when I checked in to fly to Singapore with now two full suitcases - and they didn't charge excess luggage? - I must have bought something!
Watched the rugby in a crowded Irish pub on my last night in Roma. Was slightly worried that there was going to be a riot on the penalty try - so kept my head low.
so - now in Singapore - haven't done the lying by the pool bit which was what I had planned for these two days - but have walked.... but no churches!
Being a numbers person - I like to keep track - so - 20 countries visited (16 for the first time); am going to count the number of UNESCO World Heritage sites and set up the checklist to start ticking off the remaining 800 or so; but no way I'll be able to count the duomos, cathedrals or the Madonna col Bambinos.
So - for anyone who is still bothering to read my ramblings - what have I learnt?
Contrary to earlier rumours, I can read maps and find my way around - the best piece of advice I received was from Ange who reminded me that the sun is in the south when you're in the Northern Hemisphere. Tho' it is amazing how the subconscious can override that even when you are concentrating really hard on which way to go...
The somewhat irritating habit I have of reading instructions comes in really useful when negotiating train timetables, and generally finding the way from A to B.
After the huge amount of art I have seen I think I now the difference between some styles!!
I now really understand why some professional firms still insist that their partners have a sabattical every five years or so. My poor old head that had been feeling as if it was in overload mode, now feels that it had been defragged, tidied, dusted and given a spring clean.
So... am feeling incredibly fortunate that I have been able to have this time out - some of the ragged edges have been smoothed over. I think experiencing so much beauty (art and architcture, but also landscapes,) is very soothing for ones soul!!
Not sure how I am going to cope with timesheets, collecting bad debts, tax problems etc again.
So - back to the drawing board and try and work out a way to do it again!
PS - please excuse all spelling errors - my poor wee EEPC is about to give up - and it doesn't have a spell check -
and thanks to those that have given news from home and other feedback...
see you soon!!
Friday, November 7, 2008
Tuscany
Slight panic on the friday morning as I was leaving Florence - credit card declined. Westpac had kindly replaced my card - due to fraud in the UK? - but had said (after urgent emails) that as I was here and the replacement card was there - that they wouldn't cancel the old one until I got home. But the computer had other ideas. Anyway its working again now. Did have other backups of course - but still didn't want to have the options limited!
So - set off on train to Lucca. The (english) Florentine paper had said that hotels etc were only 60% occupied - so decided that i would just get accommodation when I got there. Only - there was a "Comic & Games" festival on in Lucca - and that weekend was the grande finale. The (wet) streets were filled with vampires, gothics, and all sorts of wierd and wonderful costumes, some inspired by Halloween; others by themes that I recognised on the posters "Star Wars" and "Fantasy". And the city and surrounding 30 miles were booked out.
Anyway the very obliging tourist office did find me a room (due to a cancellation). My views of the city were somewhat distorted by marquees and scores of oddly dressed young ones. I did see a few of my generation wandering round with a bemused look on their faces - how did we get mixed up in this??!! So much for LP's description !
Sunday morning was sunny - so had another walk around -and it did look better with the sun shining - and then boarded the train to Pisa. Being a good tourist - climbed the tower just before sunset - stunning....
So yes - more walking - the usual Cs plus markets/museums/etc..... in the rain.
Then train to Siena for three nights, and today to Arezzo. Was going to go back to Florence on Monday but there is a strike - which I think affects all trains and buses - so will probably go on Sunday instead. Noone is too sure of the details so best to avoid travelling that day, me thinks.
Sometimes on this trip I feel like I'm in the middle of a giant Linear programming (Economics 1)/Sudoku problem: if I do that - then I can't do that - and if I go there ......etc
Caught local bus out to Sam Gimignano to see the towers whilst in Siena. Tried the gelato from the (twice) world champion gelato maker when in San G - and since it was world champion standard - had three scoops instead of the normal two. My favourite flavour is nearly always the last one - so out of the three - was passionfruit that day. But other favourites have been peach, cheesecake, pinolatta (?) mango, coconut, ... list is endless.
For those who have read "Eat, Pray, Love", Liz Gilbert puts on two stone (I think) during four months in Italy. I'm hoping that my 7 weeks doesn't wreck the same havoc - but I'm fearful of the worst....
Realised that I had never read "Under the Tuscan Sun" so started that while avoiding the rain and the crowds in Lucca. So am now right in the middle of UTTS location. Also "Life is Beautiful" is set and was filmed in Arezzo - so the giant filmset continues.
Which reminds me - here I am where it all began (double entry bookkeeping, that is). I haven't noticed any tours taking busloads to view beautiful ledger accounts or well balanced trial balances. Another business opportunity perhaps?
I have been meaning to report on the new suitcase - which is very well behaved. Before buying the 4 wheeler in the Brussels train station I had observed others with 4 wheelers - which appeared to trot alongside their owners like well trained dogs. Mine was different - it was more like an untrained retriever puppy - always going off in whatever direction it chose. I decided that I needed a degree in physics to pack it properly - weight along the bottom, weight along one side- ? - but it didn't seem to make any difference. Anyway the new smaller version which I got for this three weeks hop on/hop off trains is like a well trained poodle - trots along beside me - no trouble at all. In fact - I noticed someone taking a video of it amongst the Lucca crowds - I don't think that I looked that comical - but perhaps?
So with the extra case - I now have space for some shopping when I get back to Rome. Frances in UTTS says that when she first started visiting Italy she always went home with 6 pairs of new shoes - should I consider that a challenge?
Well thats enough rambling for now.
PS - the duomo in Siena is truly stunning - as is the view from the Panorama del Facciatone. won't mention the walking.... and the other churches, frescos, mosiacs etc...
So - set off on train to Lucca. The (english) Florentine paper had said that hotels etc were only 60% occupied - so decided that i would just get accommodation when I got there. Only - there was a "Comic & Games" festival on in Lucca - and that weekend was the grande finale. The (wet) streets were filled with vampires, gothics, and all sorts of wierd and wonderful costumes, some inspired by Halloween; others by themes that I recognised on the posters "Star Wars" and "Fantasy". And the city and surrounding 30 miles were booked out.
Anyway the very obliging tourist office did find me a room (due to a cancellation). My views of the city were somewhat distorted by marquees and scores of oddly dressed young ones. I did see a few of my generation wandering round with a bemused look on their faces - how did we get mixed up in this??!! So much for LP's description !
Sunday morning was sunny - so had another walk around -and it did look better with the sun shining - and then boarded the train to Pisa. Being a good tourist - climbed the tower just before sunset - stunning....
So yes - more walking - the usual Cs plus markets/museums/etc..... in the rain.
Then train to Siena for three nights, and today to Arezzo. Was going to go back to Florence on Monday but there is a strike - which I think affects all trains and buses - so will probably go on Sunday instead. Noone is too sure of the details so best to avoid travelling that day, me thinks.
Sometimes on this trip I feel like I'm in the middle of a giant Linear programming (Economics 1)/Sudoku problem: if I do that - then I can't do that - and if I go there ......etc
Caught local bus out to Sam Gimignano to see the towers whilst in Siena. Tried the gelato from the (twice) world champion gelato maker when in San G - and since it was world champion standard - had three scoops instead of the normal two. My favourite flavour is nearly always the last one - so out of the three - was passionfruit that day. But other favourites have been peach, cheesecake, pinolatta (?) mango, coconut, ... list is endless.
For those who have read "Eat, Pray, Love", Liz Gilbert puts on two stone (I think) during four months in Italy. I'm hoping that my 7 weeks doesn't wreck the same havoc - but I'm fearful of the worst....
Realised that I had never read "Under the Tuscan Sun" so started that while avoiding the rain and the crowds in Lucca. So am now right in the middle of UTTS location. Also "Life is Beautiful" is set and was filmed in Arezzo - so the giant filmset continues.
Which reminds me - here I am where it all began (double entry bookkeeping, that is). I haven't noticed any tours taking busloads to view beautiful ledger accounts or well balanced trial balances. Another business opportunity perhaps?
I have been meaning to report on the new suitcase - which is very well behaved. Before buying the 4 wheeler in the Brussels train station I had observed others with 4 wheelers - which appeared to trot alongside their owners like well trained dogs. Mine was different - it was more like an untrained retriever puppy - always going off in whatever direction it chose. I decided that I needed a degree in physics to pack it properly - weight along the bottom, weight along one side- ? - but it didn't seem to make any difference. Anyway the new smaller version which I got for this three weeks hop on/hop off trains is like a well trained poodle - trots along beside me - no trouble at all. In fact - I noticed someone taking a video of it amongst the Lucca crowds - I don't think that I looked that comical - but perhaps?
So with the extra case - I now have space for some shopping when I get back to Rome. Frances in UTTS says that when she first started visiting Italy she always went home with 6 pairs of new shoes - should I consider that a challenge?
Well thats enough rambling for now.
PS - the duomo in Siena is truly stunning - as is the view from the Panorama del Facciatone. won't mention the walking.... and the other churches, frescos, mosiacs etc...
Thursday, October 30, 2008
Roma / Firenze
I remember when I read Bill Bryson's book that he said that when he was in Rome he walked for a week. I don't remember him saying anything about wrecked hips, knees and other joints! Perhaps I conveniently overlooked that? didn't do the hop on/off tour as I realised that I had walked a fair amount of it quite early in the week. Found my way round relatively easily - and worked out the difference between piazzas and palazzos which helped when reading the guides. so - many more cathedrals, basilicas, (including that of Santa Cecilia) monuments, fountains, bridges, galleries, ruins etc. Joined a guided tour of the Vatican. Wanted to go back into the museums - but wasn't allowed - may email the Pope as I think that was a bit unchristian. E14 shd allow you in as many times as you want in the one day surely?
On the Saturday there wa a huge protest march - at first I thouught they were just going round and around the Colloseum - but no - thousands of people everywhere waving green & red flags. Something to do with democracy and saving Italy, I think.
The Vatican guide had told us that the Pope was saying Mass in St Peters on the Sunday - but to be there early. Since he (the Pope) had gone to the effort of doing that while I was in Rome, I decided that I should at least make the effort of being there too. Especially as he had organised an extra hours sleep to make sure I had time to get there (change to Winter time). So then waited for his speech at midday as well. Was going to climb the Dome but most of Rome had the same idea that day so that has to go back on the list on things to do next visit.
So Monday - left big suitcase in Roma and climbed on the train again for Florence. and yes - walked....duomos, museums, frescos, galleries.... My favourite art works are definitely those with lots of gold and royal to dark blue with some red.
So was feeling a bit ODed on culture. Apparently its a common complaint in Florence- dizzy spells from sensory overload.
Up to this point I hadn't got excited about shopping.... but I think Florence is the town where that could very easily change. What a shame about the exchange rate. My humble hotel is opposite Prada, next to Armani, and all the big names. At least I know not to even look in there!
The cold snap currently sweeping across Europe has given Florence some rain and is much colder. hopefully won't last too long as want to walk some of the Tuscany countryside.
On the Saturday there wa a huge protest march - at first I thouught they were just going round and around the Colloseum - but no - thousands of people everywhere waving green & red flags. Something to do with democracy and saving Italy, I think.
The Vatican guide had told us that the Pope was saying Mass in St Peters on the Sunday - but to be there early. Since he (the Pope) had gone to the effort of doing that while I was in Rome, I decided that I should at least make the effort of being there too. Especially as he had organised an extra hours sleep to make sure I had time to get there (change to Winter time). So then waited for his speech at midday as well. Was going to climb the Dome but most of Rome had the same idea that day so that has to go back on the list on things to do next visit.
So Monday - left big suitcase in Roma and climbed on the train again for Florence. and yes - walked....duomos, museums, frescos, galleries.... My favourite art works are definitely those with lots of gold and royal to dark blue with some red.
So was feeling a bit ODed on culture. Apparently its a common complaint in Florence- dizzy spells from sensory overload.
Up to this point I hadn't got excited about shopping.... but I think Florence is the town where that could very easily change. What a shame about the exchange rate. My humble hotel is opposite Prada, next to Armani, and all the big names. At least I know not to even look in there!
The cold snap currently sweeping across Europe has given Florence some rain and is much colder. hopefully won't last too long as want to walk some of the Tuscany countryside.
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