last leg (s)

where does time go? 10 days to catch up since last post. Spent two nights in Arezzo and on Sunday trained back to Florence in time to beat the strike. Had booked into Hotel Centrale in Firenze and probably the best (3 star) hotel that I've stayed in all trip. So if anyone is planning a trip there - I can tell you more about it. For the 2nd and 3rd nights - only E50, including a pretty good breakfast. Off season I know - but very close to everything (incl the railway station).


Went to a reading that night of "Love Letters" by Jill Eikenberry and Michael Tucker (remember LA Law). Small new theatre. Due to a misprint in the "Whats on" I only got to see the second half - but the local (Americans) were so dismayed that the time had been printed incorrectly - that they insisted I go free!


So a lot more walking. Tried to get on a group to go walking into Chianti and despite turning up at 8.15 twice - twice it was cancelled - so went back to being my own tour guide/leader. Needless to say - more frescoes. Can't decide if frescoes or mosaics are my favourite.

Haven't said much about food. Got much better at selecting more unlikely looking places. One night in Florence I walked in at 7.30 ish (too early) - but couldn't see that it was empty from the street - was seated right next to kitchen - bench type tables - and soon enough all the tables were full. Including every seat at the table that I was at. Good roast pork! Didn't feel compelled to try the Tuscan speciality of tripe, but did do wild boar & crispy cheek.


I like the Italian way of having a quick caffe at the counter along with a pastry. When breakfast wasn't included - cappuccinno and a very good pastry for E2 - can't complain about that! At the Uffizi, the difference between coffee standing at the bar and sitting at a table was E1.60 to 4.50.


Wednesday - train down to Orvieto - so did spend one night in Umbria. Not enought time to act out the Maggie Smith role in "My House in Umbria" so that will have to wait until next time.

Now the cathedral in Orvieto is something else - and I do think that if you are going to have some mosaics along with the black & white marble - then I agree with Orvieto - you may as well go OTT and have lots. Luckily I saw it on the afternoon I arrived with the sun shining on it as the next day was quite miserable - thunder/lightening/rain/cold.


Train back to Roma. Walked / tried to get interested in shopping but didn't do that well. Think I need companions / advisors for shopping. However when I checked in to fly to Singapore with now two full suitcases - and they didn't charge excess luggage? - I must have bought something!


Watched the rugby in a crowded Irish pub on my last night in Roma. Was slightly worried that there was going to be a riot on the penalty try - so kept my head low.

so - now in Singapore - haven't done the lying by the pool bit which was what I had planned for these two days - but have walked.... but no churches!

Being a numbers person - I like to keep track - so - 20 countries visited (16 for the first time); am going to count the number of UNESCO World Heritage sites and set up the checklist to start ticking off the remaining 800 or so; but no way I'll be able to count the duomos, cathedrals or the Madonna col Bambinos.


So - for anyone who is still bothering to read my ramblings - what have I learnt?

Contrary to earlier rumours, I can read maps and find my way around - the best piece of advice I received was from Ange who reminded me that the sun is in the south when you're in the Northern Hemisphere. Tho' it is amazing how the subconscious can override that even when you are concentrating really hard on which way to go...

The somewhat irritating habit I have of reading instructions comes in really useful when negotiating train timetables, and generally finding the way from A to B.

After the huge amount of art I have seen I think I now the difference between some styles!!

I now really understand why some professional firms still insist that their partners have a sabattical every five years or so. My poor old head that had been feeling as if it was in overload mode, now feels that it had been defragged, tidied, dusted and given a spring clean.

So... am feeling incredibly fortunate that I have been able to have this time out - some of the ragged edges have been smoothed over. I think experiencing so much beauty (art and architcture, but also landscapes,) is very soothing for ones soul!!

Not sure how I am going to cope with timesheets, collecting bad debts, tax problems etc again.

So - back to the drawing board and try and work out a way to do it again!

PS - please excuse all spelling errors - my poor wee EEPC is about to give up - and it doesn't have a spell check -

and thanks to those that have given news from home and other feedback...

see you soon!!

Tuscany

Slight panic on the friday morning as I was leaving Florence - credit card declined. Westpac had kindly replaced my card - due to fraud in the UK? - but had said (after urgent emails) that as I was here and the replacement card was there - that they wouldn't cancel the old one until I got home. But the computer had other ideas. Anyway its working again now. Did have other backups of course - but still didn't want to have the options limited!

So - set off on train to Lucca. The (english) Florentine paper had said that hotels etc were only 60% occupied - so decided that i would just get accommodation when I got there. Only - there was a "Comic & Games" festival on in Lucca - and that weekend was the grande finale. The (wet) streets were filled with vampires, gothics, and all sorts of wierd and wonderful costumes, some inspired by Halloween; others by themes that I recognised on the posters "Star Wars" and "Fantasy". And the city and surrounding 30 miles were booked out.

Anyway the very obliging tourist office did find me a room (due to a cancellation). My views of the city were somewhat distorted by marquees and scores of oddly dressed young ones. I did see a few of my generation wandering round with a bemused look on their faces - how did we get mixed up in this??!! So much for LP's description !

Sunday morning was sunny - so had another walk around -and it did look better with the sun shining - and then boarded the train to Pisa. Being a good tourist - climbed the tower just before sunset - stunning....

So yes - more walking - the usual Cs plus markets/museums/etc..... in the rain.

Then train to Siena for three nights, and today to Arezzo. Was going to go back to Florence on Monday but there is a strike - which I think affects all trains and buses - so will probably go on Sunday instead. Noone is too sure of the details so best to avoid travelling that day, me thinks.

Sometimes on this trip I feel like I'm in the middle of a giant Linear programming (Economics 1)/Sudoku problem: if I do that - then I can't do that - and if I go there ......etc

Caught local bus out to Sam Gimignano to see the towers whilst in Siena. Tried the gelato from the (twice) world champion gelato maker when in San G - and since it was world champion standard - had three scoops instead of the normal two. My favourite flavour is nearly always the last one - so out of the three - was passionfruit that day. But other favourites have been peach, cheesecake, pinolatta (?) mango, coconut, ... list is endless.

For those who have read "Eat, Pray, Love", Liz Gilbert puts on two stone (I think) during four months in Italy. I'm hoping that my 7 weeks doesn't wreck the same havoc - but I'm fearful of the worst....

Realised that I had never read "Under the Tuscan Sun" so started that while avoiding the rain and the crowds in Lucca. So am now right in the middle of UTTS location. Also "Life is Beautiful" is set and was filmed in Arezzo - so the giant filmset continues.

Which reminds me - here I am where it all began (double entry bookkeeping, that is). I haven't noticed any tours taking busloads to view beautiful ledger accounts or well balanced trial balances. Another business opportunity perhaps?

I have been meaning to report on the new suitcase - which is very well behaved. Before buying the 4 wheeler in the Brussels train station I had observed others with 4 wheelers - which appeared to trot alongside their owners like well trained dogs. Mine was different - it was more like an untrained retriever puppy - always going off in whatever direction it chose. I decided that I needed a degree in physics to pack it properly - weight along the bottom, weight along one side- ? - but it didn't seem to make any difference. Anyway the new smaller version which I got for this three weeks hop on/hop off trains is like a well trained poodle - trots along beside me - no trouble at all. In fact - I noticed someone taking a video of it amongst the Lucca crowds - I don't think that I looked that comical - but perhaps?

So with the extra case - I now have space for some shopping when I get back to Rome. Frances in UTTS says that when she first started visiting Italy she always went home with 6 pairs of new shoes - should I consider that a challenge?

Well thats enough rambling for now.

PS - the duomo in Siena is truly stunning - as is the view from the Panorama del Facciatone. won't mention the walking.... and the other churches, frescos, mosiacs etc...

Roma / Firenze

I remember when I read Bill Bryson's book that he said that when he was in Rome he walked for a week. I don't remember him saying anything about wrecked hips, knees and other joints! Perhaps I conveniently overlooked that? didn't do the hop on/off tour as I realised that I had walked a fair amount of it quite early in the week. Found my way round relatively easily - and worked out the difference between piazzas and palazzos which helped when reading the guides. so - many more cathedrals, basilicas, (including that of Santa Cecilia) monuments, fountains, bridges, galleries, ruins etc. Joined a guided tour of the Vatican. Wanted to go back into the museums - but wasn't allowed - may email the Pope as I think that was a bit unchristian. E14 shd allow you in as many times as you want in the one day surely?

On the Saturday there wa a huge protest march - at first I thouught they were just going round and around the Colloseum - but no - thousands of people everywhere waving green & red flags. Something to do with democracy and saving Italy, I think.

The Vatican guide had told us that the Pope was saying Mass in St Peters on the Sunday - but to be there early. Since he (the Pope) had gone to the effort of doing that while I was in Rome, I decided that I should at least make the effort of being there too. Especially as he had organised an extra hours sleep to make sure I had time to get there (change to Winter time). So then waited for his speech at midday as well. Was going to climb the Dome but most of Rome had the same idea that day so that has to go back on the list on things to do next visit.

So Monday - left big suitcase in Roma and climbed on the train again for Florence. and yes - walked....duomos, museums, frescos, galleries.... My favourite art works are definitely those with lots of gold and royal to dark blue with some red.

So was feeling a bit ODed on culture. Apparently its a common complaint in Florence- dizzy spells from sensory overload.

Up to this point I hadn't got excited about shopping.... but I think Florence is the town where that could very easily change. What a shame about the exchange rate. My humble hotel is opposite Prada, next to Armani, and all the big names. At least I know not to even look in there!

The cold snap currently sweeping across Europe has given Florence some rain and is much colder. hopefully won't last too long as want to walk some of the Tuscany countryside.

spirit of Amalfi

The Spirit of Amalfi Walking Tour started properly on Monday (13th) - tour of historical centre of Naples, train to Pompei - walked - then bus to Agerola. Two nights there and led by our gourmet tour leader Francesco, we walked down (2000+ steps) through the Valley of the Crazy Bats, and around and down to Positano (pathway of the Gods); then moved to the town of Amalfi and walked up to Ravello, and up and down through the Valley of Deserted Papermills; boat out to Capri and walked some more there - through the town and up and down! Also a boat trip round the island and visited the Blue Grotto where there were very difficult manoeuvers involving lying on the bottom of the boat to get through the narrow and low(!) entrance. All of this activity was accompanied by very good lunches and dinners and the odd wine. Most of the group dispersed on Sunday but I spent another day in Amalfi and had a day of rest! and looked at emails etc.

So now in Roma - arrived yesterday by train. Only booked the hotel for 2 nights in case I didn't like it - and once I decided that I would stay - only to find they are now fully booked. so move again tomorrow- but just round the corner so should be OK. except no free wifi!! Bother! Dinner last night with Dina and Natasha from the Amalfi tour - and today walked and took another 100 photos of marble and brass monuments etc . Tossed three coins in Trevi fountain last night - trying to be efficient and doing all three at once! If you toss coins in more than once - does that mean that you come back more than once and fall in love more than once too?? Shall I go back and toss in a couple of handfuls just to make sure? Have been saving one cent coins especially. Anyway better go and plan the next few days - hard to know where to start!!

PS - found the job that I want today - blowing the whistle at anyone who sits on the steps of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Think I would do it really well! What power! Doesn't anyone read instructions??!!

well - that seemed to work - so will continue.

so after 4 weeks in Ireland, caught the (huge) ferry from Belfast across to Stranraer in Scotland - and picked up another rental. Hertz in Scotland had been warned and it has excellent rear vision - but diesel, 5 door - and off I went.

Now driving without a navigator has its moments. Especially when often there is no space to stop and consult a map. So there were many moments when I would think I'll have to have a cigarette tonight to recover from this ... but I haven't!! and other times when I've had to stop and park the car, walk to where I wanted to go and then work out how to get there.. .

Anyway, stayed in Portpatrick the first night and the next day wandered up the coast, visited another Castle and gardens, and arrived in Glasgow that night.

Ended up staying in Glasgow for three nights, another city tour, cathedral, art gallery, museum, photo exhibition, Mackintosh trail, Burrell collection, grand houses. All of that industry in the past has paid off - some gorgeous collections.

Left Glasgow and found my way (finally) to Loch Lomond and stayed at Fort William; gondola up the Nevis Range, past Loch Ness and the Urquhart Castle to Inverness. Visited Fort George and Brodie Castle the next day - and a huge thunderstorm struck. Have never seen rain like it (not even on the West Coast). Headed back through the Highlands to Perth - with no diesel in the tank so lots of praying that I would find a station that actually had diesel for sale (some had run out!).

Onto Stirling and another Castle, and then onto Edinburgh where I stayed for 4 nights. Caught up with Anne and Margaret. Anne had been my manager back in Wilkinson Wilberfoss days and had taught me about journal entries. Margaret probably helped her as I remember I was a bit of a slow learner.
So another Castle, photo exhibition, art gallery, walked the hop on/off route as it was all quite contained, Holyrood Palace, Royal Mile, Queensferry, Royal Yacht Britannia. kd lang concert.

then across to the east coast, Berrick-on-Tweed, back to Kelso and down to Durham - and another cathedral; down to York - where the cathedral is actually a minster - and then down to Coventry.

caught the train to London, walked and walked, saw "Wicked" which I was disappointed with, stayed with Anne & Angus and talked and talked. I had to make up for the previous four weeks when I hadn't been able to get the required number of words out every day.

Then the train adventure started. Eurostar to Brussels, three nights there - walked and walked, took train out to Bruges. more cathedrals and churches..

and then the first real hiccup - handle on suitcase broke as I was walking to station (too much lifting with the wrong handle!) so had to buy another suitcase at the station and repack. Luckily a train every hour to Amsterdam so didn't have to worry about missing it. Remembered Dennis's good advice and bought one with 4 wheels (not just 2) but more on that later. so was all at 6s and 7s when I got on the train and concentration lapsed for 5 seconds as I was checking my suitcase (didn't realise that everyone just takes all bags to seat and everyone else just has to climb over/around/whatever). Some young chap asking me dumb questions re the train - turned around to see another chap standing over my seat - which was very strange as the whole carriage was empty - thought uh oh - looked in my handbag - no wallet. Meanwhile he who had been standing over my seat had sat down in the next row so I asked him for the wallet. He gave me my sunglasses so I asked again for my wallet - and he gave it back. By that time I was seriously exhausted and sat quietly in my seat clutching my bag (with wallet safely inside). Still hadn't worked out first/second class on the trains at that stage. Anyway .... very lucky!! Barbara says I must have been scary!

So - three nights in Amsterdam - apparently my hotel was right on the red light district but wasn't game to wander it by myself. Could have done a tour but as it was in broad daylight - thought that would be a bit tame. But loved the jump on/off canal tour - went round a couple of times just looking at houses. Perhaps I should have been the architect in the family as I can certainly spend a lot of time looking at houses/churches etc. Highlight was the van Gogh museum. Can't understand why there aren't more accidents involving bikes and pedestrians - a constant ting-a-ling of bicycle bells! Watched NZ vs Sth Africa in an Irish pub, which was probably one of the few times when I felt a tinsy bit homesick.

Train to Berlin for another three nights. Walked and walked. Hop on/off tour. (Sorry if this is repetitive but the days have taken on a certain routine!) Bradenburg Gate, Holocaust Museum, Checkpoint Charlie, Reichstag. After all the Roman/Gothic castles found the history in Berlin much more thought provoking. Memorials with fresh flowers to young boys shot whilst crossing the wall and the Memorial to Murdered Jews. A wonder there is not more undercurrents of hostility than there appears to be.

Train to Prague - three nights - and surprise - walked and walked. City tour (but not the pink bus hop on/off variety) This tour involved walking and a boat as well as a bus! Castle, cathedral, Charles Bridge, Mozart & Strauss concert. Dinner cruise - met up with some Aussies.

Train to Salzburg (via Munchen). Very worried at one stage as the train started to go backwards - but I managed to stay in my seat and try and look unperturbed since no-one else seemed to worry. They do that a lot but that was the first time!

City tour of Salzburg and then another highlight! Sound of Music tour. Bus full, Trudie dressed up in her Austrian gear - went to the lake in front of the mansion, the gazebo, avenue of trees to skip down, gardens where the gnomes are and the Pegasus fountain and then way out to Mondsee to the church where Maria and the Captain got married. Luckily Abagail (8 year old from Leeds) adopted me and sat with me so I could sing along to my hearts content!) Fabulous. Of course the Austrians and Germans don't know the movie so there are no worthwhile souvenirs. Note to me: business opportunity!

It was the Salzburg festival so gorgeous women wearing gorgeous clothes walking down the street - off to the ballet or opera or.. and did I mention another gorgeous Castle/Fortress/Cathedral etc?

So three nights there and then on to Vienna for another 3. Expected to be met at station by Sarah - but she had taken advantage of the bed/room and was tucked up. So another Palace, gardens, cathedral, outdoor opera with fantastic food stalls, tapas, pancakes and plums, Belverdere museum, Holocaust memorial, Museums and Mozart and Strauss concert in the grand hall of the Palace.

Train to Budapest to stay with Anne & Kelvin. They performed hop on/off/in/out tour duties with great accomplishment (lots of practice I think). Their apartment is very close to the castle and could walk from theirs (in Buda) across to Pest. Out to the country for a lovely lunch overlooking the countryside, swimming in pool, Statue Park, shoe memorial to Jews, walked and walked. Sarah off to Stockholm, so then put the tourist hat aside for a few days; played none holes of golf with Kelvin and even although he wasn't impressed - I was not unhappy. After all, even got a par! but putting was terrible (well on 7 holes out of nine was terrible); had the role of kitchen hand for Anne's dinner party which included shopping! the sour cream caused the most problem - I still think it was more like junket.

Caught up with things like hair colour, posting parcels, reading some novels rather then Lonely Planet guides and generally had a bit of a blob out time.

Anne took a weeks holiday so off we set - through Slovakia, Austria to Czech Republic to Telc, Chesky Kumlov. UNESCO sites, town squares, cathedrals, back through Austria to Slovenia and stayed at Bled and then into Croatia and down to Trogir to Anne & Kelvin's apartment where we stayed for four nights.

Walked round Trogir, Split, and the local fishing villages including churches and cathedrals! Had first swim of the European summer at Trogir. Drove back to Budapest - weather changed dramatically - down to 7° on the motorway.

so - now up to 15 September and I start the train travel again - on the train to Belgrade. The Eastern European trains not quite up to the western European - very slow. Only two nights in Belgrade - walked and walked: fortress, cathedral etc.

next day - train to Montenegro (hopefully Bar). But Serbian trains....... the whole idea of this bit of the trip was to see the beauty of the Montenegrian mountains - but the trouble was by the time we reached there - it was dark! Did get a tiny glimpse tho - and yes amazing landscapes.

so this was the day that I think I graduated into a fearless traveller. First class on the train from Belgrade is ..... so there was me, and 5 guys. 4 were serbs (I think) and 1 was Montenegrian (very cute and very young). so for 9 hours they talked in whatever language they were talking in, offering food around, offering me help with my Diabolically Difficult Sudoku (the first time I had succumbed).

The train was very late (have I mentioned that) but my problem was that I didn't have any accommodation booked in Bar. I had looked a couple of times on the internet - but nothing seemed close - so I decided that I would just find something when I got there - not expecting it to be as late as it was going to be. Usually my nervous stomach syndrome would kick in in a big way - but no - I thought well I'll just have to get a taxi to drive me around until I find somewhere. in the meantime, the vyvc (very young, very cute) chap had asked me in limited English where I was staying. He realised that I didn't have anywhere so insisted that I get off in Podrica (?)where his sister was picking him up and that he would drive me to a hotel. So off I went. Not only his sister was there to meet him, but also his mother and they then drove me around until they found me a hotel. I couldn't understand what he was saying to the receptionists - but I assume it was something along the lines of "found this mad New Zealander on the train with no accommodation - please lock her up for the night!". Anyway, restored my faith in that sometimes it is OK to believe what someone says even if it does seem slightly not OK.

Next day caught the bus to Budva, and walked .... castle/old town etc.

next day , bus to Dubrovnik and the following day met up with the Astle tour group. So yes - walked the walls of Dubronvik and the next day boarded the Wind Surf. So for the next week lived the life of Riley - big (as compared to some of the single rooms I've had) cabin all to me - five course dinners etc. First we went down to Kotor, then to Togir where I could almost pretend I was a local, then Hvar, Sibenik, couldn't get ashore at Rab as was too rough, Trieste and finally landed at Venice. so yes - in each of those ports explored the towns, visited churches, cathedrals, town halls, ruins, basicilicas etc. Also read, played cards, talked, danced, and surprise, surprise! had one or two drinks! Great week, great company!

Arrived in Venice and found my way to my hotel just off San Marco Square. Double bed in a single room - no room for suitcase! but great location. so - yes walked and walked - Duges Palace, St Marks Basilica, Rialto Bridge, round canals, took ferry out to the Lido and round the canals, Galleries. Three nights there.

Train to Genoa (via Milano). walked Genoa - city in the process of cleaning up but some of the UNESCO sites look like they will be rather gorgeous. I think I misunderstood the hotel owner - he was talking about running - naming all the NZers from Peter Snell to Walker, Quax etc, and I thought he asked me if my feet were size 8 (don't ask me why) but I think he asked me if my feet ached - at which point I received a foot massage.

next day, caught train down to Monterosso (the first of the Cinque Terra villages) and found a room. Stairs up to it were so steep - but the landlady said her son would carry my suitcase up. Then I realised I would have to give him a big tip so that he would carry it down again.

Walked the walk the next day, they say that it takes five hours to walk from Monterosso to Riomaggiore (the southern most) and yes - took me five hours. Fantastic walk - but not easy! Caught train back to Monterosso. Was a wild day (windy) and the sea was very rough. It had calmed down the next day so boats were running so caught the boat down to Portovenere - and walked round including the churches etc there.

Next day caught train back to Genoa and put bags into left luggage while I took a train back to Santa Marguerita and the bus to Portofino (decided I had to get there since I was so close). Was all a bit optimistic tho - as then couldn't get on fast train back to Milan, track between Milan and Trevagilo was closed for the weekend - so caught a cab to Bevan's apartment. Meanwhile a satellite was out of alignment so no phone service so couldn't communicate with Joy who was expecting me much earlier. so another hiccup on the pathway of travel - but all OK in the end.

So a lovely week based in Bevan's very fab apartment. Joy (NZer who has lived in Trevagilo for 30 years) was fabulous company and met with various family members and much socialising. Irish and Italians have much in common!
After catching up on washing etc, trained to Milan,(hop on/off tour) Como including boat to Bellagio, and train to Bergamo. any yes, more walking, cathedrals, churches, walled towns, forts etc. and Lake Como! (but didn't see George)

so, now up to date - yesterday, the very fast train from Milan to Naples. Taxi got lost so saw lots of Naples at night without intending to and tomorrow start the Amalfi walking tour. Met with the group tonight - all Aussies except for one American and me. A good bunch so should be a fun week. walked today... cathedrals and churches!

It might sound as if I've seen enough cathedrals etc - but no - definitely can do more. Still walking around a corner and the mouth falling open and "wow", and opening doors and marvelling at what is behind them.

I feel as if I've spent this time walking on a film set and I suppose that is what Europe is - a huge film set.

I deliberately haven't used many adjectives in describing some of the places I've seen - as you'd just get tired of "gorgeous, fantastic, amazing," etc etc.

and I have 3000 photos to date to prove it!

Am I tired of living out of a suitcase? No! have such a good filing system working that I might adopt it at home. Do I miss my own bed? No - still sleeping very well. On the rare occasion when I have thought I should be home - I realise that I'm just a bit tired and need a good nights sleep and the next day all is well again. The feet scream out each morning as they hit the floor but after two minutes are ready to take on the world again.

I must be fitter than when I left after all this walking. Certainly lost weight early on (even with all the Irish and Scottish breakfasts) but fear that the cruise and Italy - it has gone back on again. Oh well.....

better late than never?!!

I must have been away a while. Run out of moisturizer, hair needs colour (again), and at latest count have been to 17 countries.

Bought a newspaper today (Daily Telegraph) to read on the 6 hour train trip from Milan to Naples (on the very very fast train) and rather wished that I hadn't. Why spend E4.80 to read all that depressing news (especially at todays exchange rate)!

but I am conscious that my communication has been a bit(!) lax...and rather than tackle Naples in the dark, have tried to set up this blog..... and if it works, then I can let you know...

so...as I sang in Salzburg.... lets start at the very beginning... a very good place to start....

18 June was the date that Claire and I left the NZ winter behind to find that the Irish summer was not much different. Poor Claire - there we were in Dublin on a Saturday night and I couldn't keep my eyes open, no matter how hard I tried. Very strong body clock, and a very bad cough. I think I was a bit like a stunned mullet for a week or two.

However we braved the elements and explored Dublin: Guiness Factory, hop on/off tour, Trinity College and the Book of Kells and the Robert Emmett statue were some of the sights seen.

We picked up a rental car and drove down to the southern coast (by Waterford) and explored the countryside, including some very narrow country lanes. Memories include Hook Peninsula lighthouse and thatched cottages and I commenced research on fish pies.

Of course we visited Waterford factory and purchased some glasses (as you do) and then continued along the coast to Cobh, stayed in Kinsale - very cute town and sampled more fish pie at Fishy Fishy restaurant.

Continued on to Cork, kissed the Blarney Stone along the way and on to Kenmare. Visted a few pubs along the way (surprise!) and had a singalong with the Irish Weavers and another with a solo artist who had his children singing with him.

Drove round the Ring of Kerry and the Dingle Peninsula; stayed in Tralee with Claire's cousins and sampled full on Irish hospitality.

Then up the West Coast to County Clare,the Cliffs of Moher, through the Burren and onto Galway. Ferry out to the Aran Islands and stayed there a night. On to Clifden and stayed in the grounds of the Ballynahinch Castle (except I can't spell it) Onto Sligo and then back through the middle to Dublin to drop Claire at the airport for her to continue her travels to France and Portugal.

I headed north again and that was the day that I backed into a car and still couldn't see it even after I had hit it! (have I mentioned how bad the rear vision was in the rental that we had!!)

Spent nearly a day at Newgrange and Knowth (passage tombs - 5200 years old) ie older then Stonehenge and still no leaks. Fascinating.

On to Cavan, then Donegal, visiting craft villages, Castles, and Glenveagh National Park along the way. Then to Derry (walled city) along the northern coast, Giants Causeway and down to Belfast. Hop on/off tour and lots of walking.

Loved Ireland, and must do more research on the family tree for next time!

My new expressions "grand" and "wrecked" have been used alot since then.